lundi 26 janvier 2009

An unusual Christmas (22/12 - 26/12)

We just crossed the Argentinean pampas during three days, dried by the wind, soaked by the rain and chilled by the cold, and we are finally reaching El Calafate. Until the end we had to fight and we are exhausted when we finally arrive at the centre of the touristic town, after 4 hours of fierce fighting against the wind, at an average speed of 7-8 km / h. We directly go to the campsite called camping El Ovejero for a little rest.

But we are on 22nd December, Christmas is coming very quickly and we do not know where we will celebrate it. Above all, we want to avoid a sad Christmas in the middle of the Pampa, stuck in our tent to escape from the wind. At the campsite, we meet Dorothe and Sven, a couple of German cyclists we briefly met at Cerro Castillo. We start the discussion when another cyclist joins us. Philippe is Swiss, from Geneva, and his face lights up when we speak French. We left them to set up our tent and unpack our belongings. While we prepare all our gears, Philippe visits us: "We will make an asado (barbecue) with other cyclists tonight, will you join us?" Without hesitating, we accept.

That evening, we all join together around a table covered with grilled meat. We met Ana, Philippe’s wife, and Pawel and Magdalena, a couple of Polish cyclists who started their journey more than three years ago. Sven is the barbecue master and distributes sausages, chops, beef fillets and lamb legs continuously. "What will you do for Christmas Eve?" Dorothe asks us. Embarrassed, we do not know what to respond. "We booked a night at the hotel within the Glaciers National Park, but we must go there and it will cost us a lot" she adds. And everyone describes their program for Christmas Eve. “And if we celebrate Christmas all together around a super asado, in between cyclists?” We all look at each other, and something happens. We feel so well together that a few seconds of reflection are enough: Super idea! It's decided, it is with our "new family" that we will celebrate Christmas Eve. Sven and Dorothe cancel their hotel and everyone do their program so that we will be together on December 24th in late afternoon.

On 23rd December, we have a rest in the city, and 24 in the morning, we go to the famous Perito Moreno glacier, impressive river of ice that flows into the Lake Argentino (see post dedicated). In mid-afternoon, we return to El Calafate to start preparing the barbecue. But everything was ready. Ana and Philippe bought nearly 5 kg of meat, several bottles of wine and beer. Three young German cyclists have joined us since the previous day. In a nice atmosphere, we light the fire on with a glass of beer in hands.



Two hours later, the succulent grilled meat fills our plates. Philippe and Sven continuously tell jokes, and we laugh a lot, eat and drink in a group where everyone is adopted as a member of the cyclist family. At midnight, fireworks burst everywhere in the town, the music comes from festive houses and groups of young dressed up people walk and sing in the streets. We salute them from our fire place. We then play to imitate famous people of our respective countries. We laugh until we have a stomach ache! But at 4 o'clock in the morning, tiredness overtakes the happiness, and everyone go to bed, the heart full of joy.

On December 25th, Christmas Day, everybody go very slowly. Those who wanted to leave decide to stay an extra day. Only on 26th the morning, our "new family" separates. We had a strange mixed feeling of sadness and joy. After such moments, it is heartbreaking for us to say goodbye to our friends. A final group photo, one last hug, and everyone ride his bike to his destination. A great emptiness settles around us. We then think very strongly to our real family remained in France, and we sincerely hope that their Christmas was as beautiful as ours.